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Candle Making Tips: Troubleshooting

The following candle making troubleshooting guide will help the new candlemaker understand the properties of candlemaking materials and procedures. Learning to create a high quality candle takes practice and patience, and "mistakes" are inevitable. Keep in mind, though, one person's mistake is another person's wonderful, new creation!  In fact, some of the effects listed below may be intentional. The ultimate goal, however, is to create a well-burning candle. 

     [Troubleshooting For Container Candles]

 

TROUBLESHOOTING  FOR  MOLDED  CANDLES

Problem Cause
The candle won't release from the mold.
  • The well was overfilled when the candle was topped off. Be sure repours do not go above the original pour level.

  • The mold may be dented. Purchase a new mold and store in original package when not in use.

  • The wax may not be completely cooled. Allow the candle to thoroughly harden before removing from the mold.

  • The wax is too soft. Use a wax suitable for molds, such as IGI-1343 or IGI-4807.

The candle has white snowflake-like spots.
  • The wax has a high oil content or too much fragrance oil was added. Vybar 103 will help the wax hold more oil.

  • Not enough vybar was used. Depending on the amount of fragrance oil used, add ½ to 1½ teaspoons of vybar 103 per lb. of wax.

  • The candle cooled too slowly. Using a water bath will cool the candle more quickly.

The candle surface has air bubbles.
  • The wax was too hot or was poured too quickly. Pour when the wax is between 180-200°F.

  • There was water or dust in the mold. Always keep molds clean and dry and store in original package when not in use.

The candle surface has frost marks.
  • The wax was too cool when poured. Pour when wax is between 180-200°F.

  • The mold was too cold. Be sure the mold is at room temperature before pouring.

The candle cracked inside.
  • The candle cooled too quickly. Do not try to rush the cooling process by placing the mold in a very cold water bath or in the freezer.

  • The well in the candle was filled after the wax had completely hardened. Fill the well as it forms while the candle is cooling.

The candle caved in on one side.
  • The tension around the wick wasn't released as the wax hardened. Poke holes around the wick with a wooden skewer or knitting needle as the wax cools.

The flame burns a tunnel down the center of the candle.
  • The wick is too small. Use the proper sized wick for the diameter of the candle.

  • Too much stearic acid (or other additives that increase burn time) was used. Use the least amount of additives necessary for the desired effect.

The wick smokes excessively.
  • The wick is too large. Use the proper sized wick for the diameter of the candle.

  • The wick needs trimming. Keep the wick trimmed to ¼".

  • There is a draft. Don't burn the candle in a drafty area.

The wick drowns in melted wax.
  • The wick is too small and won't consume the melted wax quickly enough. Use the proper sized wick for the diameter of the candle.

The flame is small and dies out.
  • Too much dye or fragrance oil was used. Solids in some dyes and fragrance oils may clog the wick if too much is added.

 

TROUBLESHOOTING  FOR  CONTAINER  CANDLES
Problem Cause
There are jump lines on the inside of the glass.
  • The container wasn't preheated. Heat the container in a warm oven (130-150°F) before pouring.

  • The wax was too cool. Pour when the wax is 155-175°F.

There is wax left on the sides of the container.
  • The candle was burned for short periods of time. Burn the candle for at least 1 hour per inch in diameter.

  • The meltpoint of the wax is too high. Use a wax with a low meltpoint suitable for containers, such as IGI-1325 or IGI-4786.

  • The wick is too small. Use the proper sized wick for the diameter of the container.

The candle has white snowflake-like spots.
  • The wax has a high oil content or too much fragrance oil was added. Vybar 260 will help the wax hold more oil.

  • Not enough vybar was used. Depending on the amount of fragrance oil used, add ½ to 1 teaspoon of vybar 260 per lb. of wax.

The flame burns a tunnel down the center of the candle.
  • The wick is too small. Use the proper sized wick for the diameter of the candle.

  • Too much or the wrong type of additives were used. Use the least amount of additives necessary for the desired effect. Do not use additives that will harden the wax.

The wick smokes excessively.
  • The wick is too large. Use the proper sized wick for the diameter of the candle.

  • The wick needs trimming. Keep the wick trimmed to ¼".

  • There is a draft. Don't burn the candle in a drafty area.

The wick drowns in melted wax.
  • The wick is too small and won't consume the melted wax quickly enough. Use the proper sized wick for the diameter of the container.

The flame is small and dies out.
  • Too much dye or fragrance oil was used. Solids in some dyes and fragrance oils may clog the wick if too much is added.

 
 

 

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